A Sweet Journey: Discovering the Traditional Sugarcane Craft Village in Quế Sơn, Quảng Nam
The Hidden Gems of Quế Sơn . Time: 9:30-15:30 Satuday and Sunday everyweek
2/13/20262 min read
Nestled in the heart of central Vietnam, Quảng Nam province is home to many hidden gems of traditional craftsmanship. Among them, the sugarcane processing villages in Quế Sơn district (4km from The Hygge Farm) stand out as a testament to the region's rich agricultural heritage.
On a recent trip, I had the privilege of visiting one of these villages in Quế My commune, where families continue the age-old art of making "đường bát" – bowl-shaped sugarcane sugar blocks – despite the challenges of modern times.
A Legacy in the Fields
The journey began early in the morning, as the sun rose over vast fields of towering sugarcane swaying in the breeze. Quế Sơn, once known as the "land of sugarcane" in Quảng Nam, was historically dotted with hundreds of households dedicated to this craft. Today, only a handful remain, who have passed the tradition down through generations.
As I arrived at Mr. Thang's workshop, the air was already thick with the intoxicating aroma of boiling sugarcane juice – a sweet, caramel-like scent that instantly transported me back to childhood stories of rural Vietnam.
The Artisanal Process
The process is remarkably hands-on and labor-intensive, a beautiful blend of skill and patience.
Extraction: It starts with harvesting the mature sugarcane stalks, which are then peeled and fed into a pressing machine. In the past, oxen would circle a traditional mill to crush the canes, but now electric or manual presses extract the fresh, milky juice. Watching the golden liquid flow out was mesmerizing – pure, unfiltered sweetness straight from nature.
Reduction: Next comes the magic: the juice is poured into massive iron pans over wood-fired stoves fueled by the leftover bagasse (sugarcane residue). The artisans stir constantly, skimming off impurities as the mixture reduces and thickens. Hours pass under the intense heat, with the workers wiping sweat from their brows but never losing focus.
Casting: The key, as Mr. Thang explained with a proud smile, is timing – knowing exactly when the syrup reaches the perfect consistency to pour into wooden molds shaped like paired bowls (hence "đường bát").
The Final Product
As the sugar cools and hardens, it forms those iconic dark brown blocks, rich in molasses flavor and far more complex than refined white sugar. Unlike industrial sugar, this traditional version retains natural minerals and a deep, earthy sweetness that's perfect for dipping with rice paper, flavoring teas, or making classic Quảng Nam treats like bánh tổ (sticky rice cakes).
Preserving Cultural Identity
What struck me most was the resilience of these villagers. In an era of factory-produced sugar and declining demand, they persist not just for income, but to preserve a piece of cultural identity. Mr. Thang, in his sixties, spoke of how the craft once thrived, with smoke rising from every village during harvest season.
Now, it's a quieter affair, but no less meaningful. Some families are even innovating slightly – improving hygiene standards or packaging – to keep the tradition alive for future generations.
An Enduring Sweetness
Leaving the village that afternoon, with a bundle of fresh đường bát in hand, I felt a profound appreciation for this simple yet profound experience. In Quế Sơn, sugarcane isn't just a crop; it's a story of hard work, community, and the enduring sweetness of Vietnamese rural life.
If you're traveling through Quảng Nam, make time for this off-the-beaten-path adventure – it's a taste of authentic Vietnam you won't forget.
